Bordeaux is a city near and dear to my heart.

The tourist office’s slogan is Bordeaux ma ville (“Bordeaux, my city”), and after all this time- it still is MY city in France. I studied there for a semester my senior year of university and keep returning for it’s charm and elegance.

“Sleeping Beauty”

In the last decade and a half, the city has restored itself to its pre-WWII glory. The city was long called Belle au Bois Dormant (“Sleeping Beauty”) due to the dark soot that had covered many of the sandstone neoclassical buildings. By the 80’s most of the city had been scrubbed up, but they are still working today, don’t be surprised if you see scaffolding outside a cathedral or apartment building.

Similarly, most of the city center has rerouted car traffic. It makes it quieter and enjoyable to wander the streets. Even this summer, they had recently pedestrianized Le Pont de Pierre, except for city buses. My boyfriend and I noticed halfway through, noting that it was SO quiet.

Canelés

Every region and sometimes cities in France has a typical pastry. Bordeaux is the home of the canelé. Read more here: FRENCH CANELÉS

You’ll find canelés all over the city, but my favorite and where the locals shop is : La Toque Cuivrée

Wine Shop in Saint Émilion

WINE

In France, each type of wine comes from a specific region and it is carefully regulated. This is why a Bordeaux wine only comes from the Bordeaux region. With a total vineyard area of over 120,000 hectares, it is the largest wine growing area in France- which includes some of the most expensive and prestigious wines in the world.

The best way to sample these wines is to visit the appellation regions and their châteaux (my favorite is St. Émilion), or a tasting in one of the many tasting rooms in the city center. For more on Bordeaux wine, visit the tourism site.

I know a lot of people will be sucked into going to La Cité du Vin. Let me say, it’s quite new ~~and the locals joke that the building looks like a golden poop.~~ But I would save this as a last resort. It’s pretty touristy.

Wanderlust? Here’s $40 on Airbnb

La Grosse Cloche

Sights to See

La Grosse Cloche
Cathédrale Saint-André
Quinconces (Like a fairgrounds, there is always something there like an antique fair or circus)
Pont de Pierre
Neighborhoods / Quartiers
- Chartrons
- Gambetta (Shopping)

Place de Quinconces

Chartrons

2018

This was where my apartment was, during semester as a student. I LOVED living here, and would move back anytime.

It’s a historic neighborhood. Originally it was a series of warehouses holding barrels and barrels of wine. Typically there was a shopfront and the owner and his family lived above.

However, during WWII the wine industry halted and Bordeaux was occupied. A few tram stops away, I could still see large concrete bunkers, an Axis Italian naval base called BETASOM (Bordeaux Sommergibile). It’s one of the largest of these bases, and once held U-boats (German submarines), minelayers, and supply boats.

BETASOM

After the war, as France was rebuilding. The neighborhood was in disarray. As a result of initiatives by the mayor, it got cleaned up and was an antiquing neighborhood from the 80’s – the 10’s.

To my surprise, this year (2018) just a few years after my time living there, there were various new boutiques and shops. Some were chains and some were small businesses but regardless, I felt like a grumpy old lady.

Below our apartment used to be a crêperie that often hosted children’s birthday parties. I could open the french doors and giggle as I heard kids singing along with the French lyrics of Frozen’s “Let It Go.” What is there now? A ‘trendy’ ~~overplayed trends~~ t-shirt and knick knack shop. I’m so ~~pissed~~ disappointed.

The Californienne Bordeaux girl street urban fashion style candid

2016

Read more about Bordeaux Canelés: FRENCH CANELÉS

Browsing Category

Browsing Category

Bordeaux, Aquitaine, FRANCE

Bordeaux is a city near and dear to my heart.

“Sleeping Beauty”